We had a good time in Paris, but we also felt a little under whelmed initially. We hit the ground running once we arrived with so many things on our list to see, eat and drink. However, after the first few days we realised that the restaurant and bistro food that we were eating was much the same place to place. Although we love foie gras, terrine, pate, rillettes and slow braised meat, we felt “bistro-ed out’ after our first few meals. To us Paris did not have the same vibrancy, innovation, lightness and variety in food that we found in Spain and Japan. However, we found great enjoyment in the variety of French cheese and wine at our disposal. Also, we were staying with friends, which meant we had somewhere to cook, so we made the most of the produce available at the markets around Paris.
One thing that Paris definitely did for us was to contribute greatly to our expanding waistlines. Here are a few of our favourite experiences that assisted in doing so:
Racines – a "cave a manger" (this is a wine shop that sells wine to take away, but you can also have something to eat and drink there) selling all natural wines, which really challenge the palate and the mind. The meals are simple and delicious using high quality ingredients. One of the highlights of eating here is siting down to a very generous serve of Lardo di Colonnata. Oh yeah, and if you want a good espresso in Paris, this is the only place to go.
La Cremerie – another "cave a manger" selling only natural wines. The building used to be an old dairy, and many of the original features, including the marble benches and walls, and hand-painted silk-lined ceiling still remain. Here you can enjoy a plate of saucisson, and the highlight for us was the very generous serving (could probably serve 6 people, but we managed to eat it all without too much trouble) of burrata (an amazing cows milk mozzarella, enriched with cream).
Le Verre Vole – this cave a manger is also selling natural wines (seems to be the big theme in Paris currently). The menu is a meat-fest, including foie gras, terrine, boudin noir and andouillette (intestines stuffed in intestines….mentally challenging, but tasty).
Pierre Herme – if you want to taste the perfect macaroon or the most perfect cake, you must come to Pierre Herme. Everything he makes looks like a piece of art and everything we tasted was incredible. We went back here 3 times – I think that says it all!
Spring – is a cute little 16-seat restaurant, which does a set menu, changing daily. We enjoyed this place more for the concept than the food. The entrée of escargot and foie gras ravioli in a broth with fresh radish and carrot was lovely. The main course of lamb with celeriac puree and eggplant was nice. But the dessert of baked apple was appalling. However, we did enjoy ourselves, as the service was very attentive and professional, but relaxed and we drank a lovely bottle of 2000 Corbieres.
By far the best thing for us in Paris was staying with friends – we felt like we were really living in Paris. And it also gave us the opportunity to go to the markets and buy local produce (Luke went particularly crazy for the wild mushrooms – girolles, trompets, pied de mouton, chanterelle and ceps), local meats such as wild shot duck and guinea fowl and cheeses from small producers. It has been fantastic to see the variety of cheeses available and to taste the difference between the industrial French cheeses that we get in Australia and the artisinal cheeses made from raw milk that are so abundant in France. Although we are a little cheesed out at the moment (due to over indulgence) it is one thing that we will definitely miss once we return home.
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